Kurt's Korner - The Idea Man

Today we present the final installment of this week's series of Kurt's Korner posts. Kurt reaches an important conclusion at the end. For easy reference, here are links to the other posts: 

• Monday - Good Neighbors 
• Tuesday - South Rim Routes 
• Wednesday - Grant to Study Hikers Impact 
• Thursday - Helicopter and Debate     

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I know how we can solve the main problem, which is how to make climbing access the most important job of the Forest Service. First, because WTMCC is associated with the Access Fund, we (climbers) already have a partnership with the FS in the form of a MOU (Memorandum of Use. Or if you prefer, Make Obvious Use of Kurt agreement). When your climbing partner is having a problem, is stuck or stranded, there is no question you will help them out. When the climbing community has an issue, the community helps out.

Fortunately, I have offered solutions to many of climbing's pressing problems over the last several decades. (Side note: Michael has been collecting my ideas in four notebooks covering 10 years. Stay tuned for the book.) Here are some examples:

• With the chalk problem in the 80’s, I cut the chalk usage in the United States by 50% by dividing things up by geographic area, time of day, aspect, etc.  See “The Final Word”, CLIMBING, issue 83, page 22.
• I addressed climbers numbers problems in CLIMBING, issue 75, page 54.
• I took on route reporting, red pointing, and whether we need guides: “Climbing for the People”, CLIMBING, issue 87, page 5 and letters.
• I can easily solve a bolt war with some of my ideas from a previous post in this blog, Bolt War of One. The climbing wall around the North Rim will be the first step there.

In other words, the anti-climbers aren't the only one who can write letters to the editor.

Looking ahead, I wrote the sign design program for Region 1 Forest Service (really) so I know the importance of signage. The next step is to place a sign at the Cow Creek trailhead announcing climbers are the most importance user group of the BNF. If it's displayed in a FS sign (or brochure), it must be.

There is no shortage of ideas.

Oh, and one last closing thought for the week: APRIL FOOLS!!

Other ideas to follow...

Editor's Note: It is hard to fact check non-facts. But working with Kurt this week has certainly improved our visualization skills. This should contribute to faster sends of boulder problems and crux sequences, further demonstrating the merit of Kurt's approach to problem solving. The publisher of this blog also wishes to issue a disclaimer that the Mill Creek Report does not support Trump for President. It is the belief of all involved with this blog that there is already far enough separatism, acrimony and anti-human sentiment in the world, as is routinely demonstrated by Keele and his anti-climber minority.

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Kurt's Korner - Helicopter and Debate

Update on the ice maintenance: Have done a little checking and Dave has a friend in Wyoming with access to a Halliburton oil field helicopter who will drop the cat off at the top of the cliff. The helicopter won't be able to pick the cat back up, so we’ll have to drive it down the trail or leave it up there for a while. If it is left up there, we can make some super belay platforms. Also, if we use the cat to make the approach trail 48 inches wide, I can then run a pack animal business to haul in climbing gear, bolts and drills. That way we won’t have to maintain a cache of gear on the big ledge (out of sight from the anti-climbers as we've been doing). The anti-climbers apparently haven't taken on backcountry horsemen or their trails, so this should qualify as "acceptable" use of public land.

The other big news is the Trump vs anti-climbers debate scheduled for April 8. When Trump heard Obama was involved with the South Rim, he didn't want to be out-maneuvered. He has decided to speak out against the discrimination climbers have faced at the North Rim. Trump also proposes that a wall be built across the mouth of Mill Creek canyon to protect the climbers. We suggest one side of the wall (the west side) be bolted with gym holds paid for by the allied health workers of Hamilton. The holds will allow training and improve climber physical condition and health, something which any health worker should readily promote. The debate will be moderated by the author of this blog series, his brother, and the pilot of the previously mentioned helicopter. Winner will also be decided by the author. UM will televise the debate and the advertising revenue will be donated to the FTUKKR2TCC (Fund to Update Kurt Krueger’s Rack to the Current Century - recall I am retired and on a fixed income).

Other ideas to follow...

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Kurt's Korner - Grant to Study Hikers Impact

I’ve been investigating the possibility of getting a $1,520,000.00 grant from the Forest Service for a study of the anti-climber's use of the North Rim of Mill Creek. I'm pretty sure I can push it through. I've had grants funded in the past for bike trails in Missoula on Forest Service and Fish, Wildlife and Parks land. My proposal for this grant is the study be conducted by our own FS research staff (retired). As I've done in the past, I'll bring in the top people in recreation activity to assist with the work. My friends at the IMBA will be a good match since the anti-climbers have also been pushing the FS to shut down biking trails in the Bitterroot.

The research will focus on trail wear caused by the anti-climbers' hiking boots per weight class, the effect of the holes in the soil made by their hiking pole tips, and the CO2 global warming effect of their extra hiking as opposed to more sedate activities like sitting around belaying. The second part of the study will involve the feasibility of moving any birds of prey to New York City skyscrapers. I think PetSmart has bird cages, and might be brought on as a corporate sponsor. Some funds could be maintained to relocate the anti-climbers to NYC with the birds.

Update on the ice maintenance: I have a request in with the Missoula City Parks Department for a Private Citizens Use authorization (PCU) of their new cat with a narrow blade. I don’t think it will be that hard to figure out how to run it, and it will be the perfect tool to push the snow off the top of the climbs and help us get snow shovels up there for manual use. The old hiking and animal trail up the ridge should be easy to follow and the cat can help straighten out the braided trails at the bottom caused by the anti-climbers' moving of downed trees and habitat as they tried to block the public's access to public land. Once the path is in, Dave will take a bunch of shovels and extra gas in his bike trailer and can cache the shovels in case we get any late season storms. A couple trailers should do the trick for equipment transport.

It's important to reward those climbers clearing the ice and doing other maintenance for the good of the climbing community. The Forest Service has prohibited us from slowing the erosion at the base of the climbs or reversing the damage the anti-climbers caused when they dug up rocks and branches up there as well. But it is possible that pulling knapweed and picking up litter, like the broken toilet and spent gun cartridges that cover the hillside, may be permitted. Therefore, any climber who presents a knapweed stem (roots must be included) or a piece of litter (especially litter planted by the anti-climbers) will be rewarded with a beer on "Tick Traverse" (trad climb). Remember to double up your anchor when you rap down.

Keg is supported by stoppers and hexes.
No bolts placed.

Other ideas to follow...

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Kurt's Korner - South Rim Routes

Editor's Note: Submissions from Kurt often require a little work, teasing meaning from the words, ensuring the essence of the idea is neither distorted nor lost. This is the first part of a longer piece. We expect to get another paragraph or two posted each of the next few days.

Good news on the voluntary bolting moratorium. After hearing that the route “No Drama Obama” had been named for him at the North Rim, it looks as if President Obama will issue an executive order to open the South Rim (the cliff band across the canyon from the current climbing area) for route development. As a result, we did a preliminary walk through of the potential up there and it turns out the anti-climbing group was correct about existing routes. We found five routes, only there are two things: First, the hardware dates from the 1990s, meaning, they’ve apparently been there all along and no one knew. Also, the first bolt on each route is at least 20 feet off the ground. We first thought this was due to minimizing visual impact. But the anti-climbing group was too busy stopping timber sales back then to worry about climbers and bolts, so we came to the obvious conclusion that the high first bolt was of the old-school type of climb, before crash pads, stick clips, and climbing gyms made climbers soft and lazy litterbugs. Either way, it may be one of the reasons the routes are still there since hikers and bird-watchers can’t reach the bolts to damage them.

Since climbing at the South Rim is now officially recognized (thanks to May 25 Forest Service letter), I am pleased to report the next 25 routes have been picked out and transferred to official drawings. We’ve also made a few chalk marks at the base of several to help remember where they’ll go. If you want to put one of the new routes up just stop by the Climbers Club HQ and pick one out. Remember you will have to name the climb, so the pressure is on. Important: you can pick up the secret knock for admittance to HQ at the gym’s front desk. You can find out which gym’s front desk (UM or Freestone) by asking one of the girls drawing beer at Draught Works, but only if they’re drawing the special “code” beer at the time. To find out which beer is the special code beer, well, you’ll have to figure that out for yourself. It may take a lot of trial and error, so start drinking.

On another topic, we do have a maintenance problem across the canyon at the North Rim. The ice coming over the top is getting our routes wet. Dave is leading a trip on April 1 to shovel the snow off the top of the cliff. He figures if he takes the snow off for about 10 feet that should allow things to dry off pretty nicely. If anyone thinks the climbs are a little dirty check with Dave about collecting snow in a tank up top and then run a hose down to clean the dirt off. Remember if you have a climbing problem – we’re here to help and will figure out a solution for you.

Scouting the South Rim for Routes
Aerial Vandal Patrols Also Under Consideration

Other ideas to follow...

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Kurt's Korner - Good Neighbors

Next issue to tackle: Although Montana had a history of not reporting climbs, that changed around 1990. I’ve had early climbs in Kootenai reported by others when the Falcon guide came out. Other climbers have done the same. That’s our choice. Today we have the guides.

Montana climbers tend to travel a bunch, especially in winter when our local crags are snowed in. When we visit other areas, we get to enjoy the labor of the climbing family in those states in the form of the routes others have put up. Meanwhile, during the time this blog was down in 2015, climbers in our area continued to be harassed by the vocal minority, and received no support from the Forest Service. The Forest Service even activated a moratorium for new sport routes. The blog being off-line resulted in us letting down other climbers by not giving them access to our routes, as we have to theirs. So let’s change that and say, Come and enjoy them now. The North Rim guide is available for PDF download in the upper right corner of this site, as it always has been. Another guide for some new trad routes will also be out soon.

The group and individuals who have pressured the Forest Service with anti-climbing harassment are definitely of the “not in my neighborhood” type. So, to them, sorry about that. But it’s over now. Print the guidebook and enjoy the routes. Montana is a poor state. The state government promotes inviting your friends to Montana to recreate and spend money. Face the reality.

A few more details of coordinating routes and guidebooks. First thing, I’m retired from the Forest Service (research not leadership). Now the important part: I was also a union steward. As a result, I have problems with FS leadership. For Dwight’s 2nd addition of the Butte guide he and I agreed we wouldn’t put all the areas in the guide. There were plenty of climbs for climbers new to the area and we thought once you completed all the climbs you would be plugged into the local scene and could find the non-published areas. After Dwight passed, I continued this practice in the 3rd edition of the Butte guide. We have a similar situation here in Missoula. Lots of climbs and areas are not published, while plenty are published for new residents and visiting climbers. The Forest Service has indicated they will be developing a climbing management plan in the Bitterroot National Forest. It is hard to manage a recreation activity if you don’t know where it is taking place. At this point in time I don’t feel the climbing community believes it has had a positive experience with the Forest Service. So, I will keep some climbs unknown, just in case. If you are a visiting climber (please bring ID to prove you are not a member of the “not in my neighborhood” group) and need to find some of the unpublished climbs -- just get in touch with me. I have the time to show you around. I’ll take you. Sharing is part of being a good neighbor.

Other ideas to follow...

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Kurt's Korner - Blog is Back

The Blog is back. It is time to share some opinions. The Forest Service bolting moratorium did nothing. So where are we now? The main objection was the sport climbing. Well just before the moratorium, we saw 2 new sport routes. A steep one on the far left, above hard rocks with no soil damage at the bottom. And Cole and I put up a route which is over on the far right of the Tick Farm. It shares the first 3 bolts of a previous climb so no new soil impact, for any readers who are counting. We’ll likely call that one “Better Friends of the Bitterroot” but we have to get approval from Ken, keeper of the guide, for permission to deviate from the “tick” theme for names. Given his “opinion” of Keele and FOB, it’s unlikely he’ll object. So, this was an increase of 5% to the sport climb routes. I also put up some trad climbs, resulting in a 28% increase of those routes. My project for this spring is to add a second pitch to Liger. There is about 25 feet of crack and a gear placement up a little higher. After that maybe a couple bolts. It will go up to anchors which have been waiting for use for about 5 years.

A number of trad routes have also gone up on both sides of Pie for Strength. I count about 50 pitches. This means trad pitches now outnumber sport. This makes Mill Creek a trad area (guide of the new trad routes coming soon). Therefore, while we don’t want to discriminate against sport climbers and want to make them feel welcome, I do think we need to adapt to the change in the type of climbing at Mill. I did come up with one idea: The first thing is we can’t have the wimpy sport climbers running around on their thin legs. Therefore, to help bulk up the wimps, we will have them carry the trad climbers’ packs which have those heavy trad racks in them, those cams and nuts and things that make those climbs “acceptable.” As the author of most of the trad climbs says, “FOB can’t chop what’s not there.”

Other ideas to follow.

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Kurt's Korner - Almost Retired

Here's the latest from Kurt:

We have made great strides in the "carry Kurt's pack" issue.

With me all but retired (note to Ken – not reporting trad climbs is now AGE discrimination – a protected class by the US government), I'm pleased to report that the climbing community has at last recognized it's time to step up to the plate. Kate and Michael carried 2 ropes and hardware up to the Heap last Monday, leaving me with a load of only shoes and harness, which I was able to handle, though just.

The following weekend, Tim and Michael carried the gear and set up climbs at Rattler. They also did an Age Belay Check, which I passed, although it was close given I'd just ridden my bike from Georgetown Lake, possibly due to concern over my ability to operate a vehicle given I'm nearly retired –or possibly not.

And finally, this Monday, Kate and Michael again carried my gear in to the Heap, plus each took one of my climbing shoes. Today Michael and I leave for Lander, and with Michael's connections at North Face, I'm sure they will have already arranged for porters.

Life is good.  

Editor's Note: Every effort was made to facilitate the author of this post and publish his material in a timely manner. We hope this will serve to mitigate risk of protests from the AARP, lawsuits from equal rights lawyers, and denial of service attacks from forgotten ARPANET nodes. (Never underestimate the extent of Kurt's resources.)
 

Kurt's Korner

Editor's Note: Kurt submitted this piece a couple of months ago. We apologize for the delay in posting. It took time to have it fact checked by our Fact Checking department. Then Legal had to analyze it for liable. And finally, Intellectual Property needed to determine if the sport of cycling has sole rights on the issue of athletes and doping. Turns out they don't.

Performance-Enhanced Climbing Grades

Due to cycling's recent problems with drugs, the Mill Creek Developers (being one of the most cutting edge groups around for rock climbing -- see previous posts) will start a drug testing program for First Ascents. So that we'll be able to test from now until doomsday please submit 1 to 2 pints of urine. Since we don’t have a bathroom nor officials to monitor collection, please just ask all the climbers on the wall to watch you create your sample.

We won’t give an opinion if drugs are good or bad. We will just add the use, if detected, to the rating of any climbs the associated climber puts up. Since drugs can be categorized as affecting Head (H) or body (B), we will reference them separately. The Head rating will go something like: H1: Mary Jane (see the 1970’s), H2: Cocaine, etc. The Body rating will go something like: B1: Speed, B2: EPO, B3: Steroids, etc.

Going forward, climbs will have ratings like 5.11a/bB1H1L R 

I added the last L for a Left-handed crux. I’m tired of being discriminated against for that. I assume you all know what the R is for.

More info coming as soon as I make it up.

-Kurt