Tuesday, October 16, 2012

New Pirates Cove Route

The route developers have been at work again. Michael accompanied Tim to the Pirate Cove to open a line that caught Tim's eye. They placed 9 bolts to new top anchors and named it "There's No ARRRR in a Bloody Stem!"

The climb is on the right side of the wall, tucked into a chimney formed by the adjacent wall. But you don't climb it like a chimney, though you can stem. It's probably 5.10a if you stem, 5.10c/d if you don't. It finishes at sport anchors and is great fun.

Tim wants you to climb this route. Michael wants you to climb it. They worked hard to open it. They scrubbed lichen and wrenched on bolts. Michael especially will be psyched if you climb it. He'll shake your hand. He'll talk to you about it. He'll hang in the shade at the base and give you beta.

He wants you to have fun. He loves you. He bleeds for you. You probably think that's a figure of speech...

Michael keel hauled in the Pirate Cove while putting up the Bloody Stem.
Note: The guide (link upper right) has been updated with three new routes including this route, a new one on First Girlfriend Buttress, and a new toprope variation from Cougar Bait to Liger anchors.