Friday, September 23, 2011


Following his August ascent of Because This One Is Also There, Kurt returned twice to the east side of the main amphitheatre and ticked off the remaining two wide cracks, completing his Cracktrilogy with an ascent of Because You Can't Ask For More this past Saturday.

As Kurt indicates below, there is evidence that at least one of the cracks has been climbed. If anyone has information about the original ascents please let us know. Until that time, we'll give Kurt credit and go with his route names.

Descriptions and embelishments courtesy of Kurt Krueger. Routes are listed in the order Kurt climbed them.

1. Because This One Is Also There, 5.9-. Gear. August 2011.

Description here.

2. Didn’t See It But It’s There, 5.9. Gear. September 2011.

Looking at the Aug 2011 blog entry: More New Routes - I discovered a large crack in the corner (to the left of Because This One is Also There).Large enough to get inside for a squeeze chimney (this might detour Ken from his mission of climbing all the routes at Mill Creek - as any good guide book author does).

I immediately called the climb, "Didn’t See It But It’s There."

With the usual group fighting for the opportunity to second the climb, Brent won the honor. I started up with the usual large rack but didn’t need anything bigger than a 4 Camalot (doubles of the 2 and 3, a 3-1/2 and the 4 should do you). I climbed the crack and enjoyed the chimney. There was a little loose stuff at the top so I exited to the left. Shock of shock, I found 2 bolts. My first thought was that Michael Moore had stolen the route. He knew I had been looking at it. He had been giving us a cover story that the bolt/hanger order had been "overdue" so how could he be putting up any anchors? Clever, clever cover story. Breaking into his house one night while he was at Leavenworth yielded no hardware. But the guy is clever (see previous sentence). He could certainly have stashed the gear at work. A forged search warrant to check Michael's office yielded an uppity employee yelling, "Freedom of the press!" and got me nowhere. Anyway, I guess we will just go with the First Ascent Report. Luckily, I think Michael is climbing in Washington again so I should be able to get the crack on the right before he gets back --- Unless he's not really in Washington . . .

3. Because You Can't Ask For More, 5.9. Gear to #5 Camalot. Gear anchor. Rap from Give and Take anchors or hike down. September 2011.

Heavy pack with a large rack, rope, bolting toys, a cold wind at the top belay, a nice bulge (hand jam) to make it into the wide part, bushes in the way, the second using chicken wing arm bars - what could be better? True Ken could have hiked to the top with refreshments for the successful team but then again he hasn't done it yet. A must climb for the Mill Creek hardman. This climb would yield to an Aid effort as long as the team would be willing to carry in 50 pounds of hardware.

Kurt visible in white at the top of
Because You Can't Ask For More