Thursday, May 19, 2011

New Trad Route Dihedrals

Cole Lawrence got in touch with us with news that he and his climbing partner, Peter, climbed an excellent 6-pitch trad route near Dihedrals East in the main part of the canyon. The pair added belay/rap anchors at the top of each pitch, with all the climbing protected by gear. They spent time cleaning the worst of the dirt and loose rock out of the crack systems, but report that the route can definitely benefit from some more traffic.

It is unclear whether this is a new route, a re-discovery of an old line, or an extension of a known climb. Here's what Cole had to say,
It seems like in Mill Creek, if it's a crack it's been climbed. We are not concerned with or worried about the first ascent but it would be cool to know if anyone else has gone the same way as us. The whole climb goes very safely on gear. The gear on pitch 5 is super tricky. This pitch would be an impressive free. The route does look abandoned especially after pitch 4. We found new gear and old gear from old ratty hexes to new Astro nuts and brassies.

If anyone knows the history of this route, please leave a comment here or send an email to millcreekreport at gmail. And be sure and let us know if you go climb it. Sounds like a great addition to the routes in the canyon. All it needs now is some traffic to help clean it up.

Thanks to Cole and Peter for the climbing, cleaning and bolting, as well as taking the time to document and report the route.

Route Description

Approach: Follow climbers' trail to Gray Wall and No Sweat Arete. Ledge system starts at a natural stair case on right, half way to No Sweat. Traverse right past one large dead tree and past prominent live tree on exposed ledges and nice trail. Aim for the prominent corner system of this climb left of Dihedrals East. Note the approach for Dihedrals East is not the same as this approach. The corner is surprisingly accessible with little trial and error. Keep an eye out for the two trees mentioned. (45 min to 1 hr. from car)

Pitch One (5.9): Climb diagonally to the right over small roof above single belay bolt. Pull bulge and continue up left facing corner to a bush and 2 bolts on small ledge. 105 feet. Gear to 5 in. Doubles recommended.

Pitch Two (5.9+): Continue up left facing corner and pull roof/layback hand crack to two bolt anchor on ledge. 105 feet. Gear to 5 in. Doubles recommended.

Pitch Three (5.8): Continue up left facing corner for 15 feet to a few face moves. Move left slightly and climb over small tower. Once on top of tower climb obvious off-width crack with many face holds to ledge with 2 bolt anchor. 80 feet. Gear to 5 in.

Pitch Four (5.10+): climb broken corner up and around roof laybacking and jamming (30-40 ft up) to a 5.10+ finger dihedral for 100 more feet of spectacular climbing. Finish pitch on 5.6 slab crack in corner. Anchors on awesome exposed ledge. Many route options from here. 150 feet. Gear to 4 in. Doubles recommended.

Pitch Five (C1 or 5.12): traverse to the right 30 feet into small discontinuous seam. Climb up 30 more feet to anchors on small ledge. 70 feet. Gear to 2 in. Small nuts.

Pitch Six (5.9): Climb wide crack system to top. Aim for tree. 120 feet. Gear to 5 in.

Two 60-meter ropes are required for the rappel.