Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Holiday Activity

(photo: Q.E.D. - Steep!)

Nine climbers took advantage of the holiday Monday to hike up to the North Rim. The tick count was near zero (!) and we were all digging out jackets and fleece in cool conditions.

Five of us came to work new routes. Two other parties arrived during the day to climb on the Tick Farm.

Michael and Brett, with assistance from Kurt, bolted a new line that Michael had top-roped with his daughter, Kate. It finishes at anchors beneath the roof right of Ticked Off. Chalking up one for women climbers, Kate christened it "No Dick Tick." The climb follows 7 bolts at solid 5.8. It's a great looking, direct line up a nice piece of rock and promises to be a Tick Farm favorite.

Kurt took his trad skills down and right of Witness the Tickness to the nearby west-facing wall featuring a couple of gear lines he and Tim have been working. He led Tim's 5.7 gear line (prepped a week ago) for its first ascent, then placed one bolt to protect some dicey climbing on his own route, Give and Take (working name), which ascends the obvious, striking crack that starts wide and climbs to a clean roof. The roof bears resemblence to Kootenai's Arms Race, but those who have done it on t.r. report it's climbed as a strenuous layback/undercling. So far it's looking like 5.10d with one bolt and the rest gear. The route is still being cleaned, so we'll get word out when Kurt says it's ready for ascents.

Dane and Ken spent the entire day cleaning and bolting Q.E.D. located on the long wall right of Proof of Concept. This will not only be the hardest line to date at the North Rim, but has also been the most challenging to open due to the overall steepness including a roof and several bulges. The crux is around 12a/b, with numerous 5.11/11+ sub-cruxes above. Somehow Dane summoned enough energy at the end of the day to head up on top rope and confirm that the whole thing goes. We have some more cleaning and at least one more bolt to place before the redpoint attempts begin.

Above the Roof, 80 feet up. 4th Crux, Q.E.D.

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